Watch: I transitioned from the finest budget travel to a lavish experience on my holiday in Dubai
I was invited by the tourism board to explore the United Arab Emirates city of Dubai for a ‘budget to extravagant’ experience. Flying directly from Glasgow Airport in late September, I encountered a pleasant warmth of 40C, a delightful escape from a lackluster Scottish summer. We lounged by the pool, savored traditional dishes, and embraced Arabic traditions.
Authentic Emirati Brunch
The first activity on our agenda was an authentic Emirati brunch held at the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU), a beautifully restored wind tower house situated in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood in Old Dubai, just a brief drive from our lodging. This comprises a one-hour interactive session led by an Emirati cultural expert who presents the meal while facilitating an open discussion.
We were graciously welcomed with Arabic coffee and dates, and seated on plush cushions that adorned a red and blue patterned rug covering the courtyard floor, a surface I believe is called a “surfa.” At the center, a line of metal casks held various dishes. Our host elaborated and illustrated how native families and communities interact, exploring cultural elements – the significance behind specific aspects of presentation, ambience, and gestures – which ultimately shape the dining experience, illustrating how socialization and nourishment are treated with great reverence.
Following this enlightening discussion, we were invited to sample the cuisine served as a buffet. The offerings included chicken biryani, balaleet (vermicelli pasta blended with scrambled eggs), dango (chickpeas in a gentle chili broth), chicken nashif, khameer (sweet flatbread infused with herbs and spices), and concluded with a dessert of lugaimat (round sweet dough balls drizzled with date syrup).
This venue once served as a family home. A tall tower over the courtyard was ingeniously designed to capture wind and cool the residence, exemplifying traditional architecture prevalent in this region before the advent of air conditioning.
Dubai Frame
“We boast the largest mall, tallest building, and even the deepest swimming pool. Dubai holds numerous records for possessing the biggest of everything,” the driver enthusiastically declared. Our second destination was the Dubai Frame, which at over 150 meters towers as the tallest frame globally. A vibrant yellow and gold structure contrasting against a deep blue, clear backdrop, it stands alone, occupying a previously untouched segment of the skyline.
Commencing with an interactive exhibit detailing the transformation of the land from barren desert to the radiant field of megastructures it has become, a lift later whisked us to the apex of the frame, its transparent exterior revealing an expansive vista. At the summit, the panoramic views are breathtaking with floor-to-ceiling windows and a glass strip running along the flooring, presenting a rather dizzying perspective of the height. Rows upon rows of flat, pale rooftops become visible on one side of the frame, showcasing the old city extending as far as the earth’s natural curvature, with a hazy sea lining the cusp. Conversely, the opposite side illustrates the contemporary part of the city – the extensive array of modern architecture that Dubai is now famous for, framed within a single viewpoint. The structure is exact in all its interpretations.
Platinum Heritage Desert Safari
Later in the afternoon, our group was picked up in a spacious leather four by four and transported to the desert for our Heritage Safari. Cruising down a seemingly endless highway, our driver shared insights about the structures aligned along the side of the road and utilized personal stories to illustrate the city’s evolution since his arrival from Pakistan in 2003, accompanying us throughout the journey as our conservation guide.
Upon reaching the sandy expanse, we immersed ourselves in the environment, adorned in vibrant headscarves and provided with complimentary metal water bottles. We transitioned into an open top 60s Land Rover and embarked on an hour-long nature exploration, gliding along a golden, powdery trail as we savored the cool breeze. We paused at various spots for insights into local wildlife, exploring the vegetation and capturing photo opportunities. We then enjoyed a live falconry presentation as the sun dipped below the horizon, igniting the surroundings with its dusky glow.
Our ultimate destination was a genuine torch-lit Bedouin camp where we were received with coffee and dates, followed by a guided tour of stone and clay cooking stations to observe the preparation of bread and the grilling of meat, with sweet and slightly metallic aromas enveloping the air. We soon partook in these dishes as part of a traditional four-course meal, comprising flavors and textures I had never encountered before, and the familiar elements were prepared according to an Emirati recipe. We engaged with culture and history through taste, broadening both our palates and minds. The evening concluded with an interactive drumming performance and an enchanting astronomy lesson.
DRIFT Beach
Dubai is enveloped in extravagance, and this was the primary facet of its character I had envisioned before this visit, having conducted my research primarily through social media perspectives. I anticipated visual opulence and little else, with experiences designed around what is photogenic. However, the events of the previous day illustrated that there is depth beyond the shimmering skylines, revealing that the city does…
amply demonstrate its rich and cultural roots. For a travel destination, this is essential as it presents a distinctive allure among various possible locations—any place can be beautifully adorned.
At this stage, my doubts had been alleviated, and my appreciation solidified. Consequently, a visit to DRIFT Beach was a delightful recovery after a day filled with activities. Dubai boasts a multifaceted nature, tackling all its aspects with seriousness and elegance.
DRIFT takes inspiration from the French Riviera, which is reflected in its stylish yet refined design and tranquil ambiance. Spanning sixty-five acres, it features a pool, bar, restaurant, inviting cabanas and sun loungers, a DJ booth, and exclusive beach access. We visited the recently refurbished club on a Sunday morning, our sole aim being to unwind.
Set against the sweeping vista of Dubai’s towering and gleaming skyline, we savored negronis beside the warm lagoon, basking in the sunshine and savoring the experience. When lunchtime approached, we made our way to the restaurant—serving classic French dishes with a focus on locally sourced ingredients and fresh organic produce. I relished the king prawns drenched in a delightful smoky sauce infused with garlic and chili to start, followed by seafood and orzo pasta drizzled in a light lemony bisque paired with a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc.
Frying Pan Adventures
In the evening, we ventured to the Souks, a series of markets situated on the Deira side of Dubai Creek. This area is pivotal to the city’s cultural identity, historically serving as a gathering place for merchants from around the globe to trade goods. Although the structural landscape of this region has developed through a process of artificial land reclamation, for which the UAE is well known, it has preserved its original infrastructure. It features hues, patterns, materials, and charm steeped in Middle Eastern traditions. Comprising both locals and tourists attracted to browse gold, spices, textiles, and perfumes, our visit was primarily motivated by our interest in food.
We embarked on a Frying Pan Adventure tasting journey, which included a tour around the Souks, halting at vendors to sample bites made from ingredients and recipes inherent to the area. This experience stimulated multiple senses, as the surrounding sights, scents, and sounds harmonized with flavors and textures to vividly narrate a story. To conclude our adventure, we crossed the Creek on a traditional wooden boat for a meal at the Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant, recognized in the Michelin Guide for its Emirati cuisine.
Final Thoughts
Prior to this journey, I had never contemplated visiting Dubai; while I acknowledged its widespread popularity as a tourist hotspot, the concept never captivated me. When tasked with booking a vacation, I often find the initial process of selecting a destination to be tiresome, as I generally seek a well-rounded experience, which many places fall short of delivering. I desire to soak up the sun on a beach, yet I also wish to explore a city and enrich my mind by immersing myself in a different culture. I yearn for both active adventures and the option to relax and elegantly dress for an exquisite dinner. With crippling indecision spurred by uncertainty, a final choice is often made only after a thorough negotiation of my desires.
I was unprepared for the extensive array of experiences that Dubai offers. Over a three-day itinerary, we engaged in a variety of activities that allowed us to revel in the city’s magnificence, explore its rich history, and ultimately develop a fondness for it. Dubai attracts visitors for a multitude of reasons and rightfully boasts about its offerings.
Travel
Traveling to the UAE from Scotland is effortless, with Emirates providing daily direct flights to Dubai from both Edinburgh and Glasgow airports. The Edinburgh service was reinstated earlier this month after a halt in 2020, and was joyfully welcomed back on 6 November with the sounds of bagpipes from the Royal Military Tattoo. This development enhances tourism potential for visitors to Scotland as well as for Scots intending to explore other destinations. DXB is among the largest airports globally, thus providing numerous options for connecting flights. This route has become a favored choice for travelers heading to locations like Australia and Thailand.
Activities
SMCCU
- The Emirati Brunch begins at 130 AED (£27) per person http://www.cultures.ae/program/cultural-meals.
Dubai Frame
- A ticket to Dubai Frame is priced from 50 AED (£10.45) per person http://www.thedubaiframe.com/
Frying Pan Adventures
- The Dubai Souks and Creekside Food Walk is available from 435 AED (£90.87) per person http://www.fryingpanadventures.com/food-tours-in-dubai.
Platinum Heritage
- The Platinum Heritage ‘Heritage Safari by vintage Land Rover’ starts at 695 AED (£145) per person http://www.uae.platinum-heritage.com/heritage-safari
Saray Spa
- The Fragrant Stone Massage is available from 950 AED (£197) per person https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/dxbjw-jw-marriott-marquis-hotel-dubai/spa/
DRIFT Beach
- Event booking information can be found at https://driftbeachdubai.com/calendar/
Xclusive Yachts
- Details on packages and bookings can be located at https://xclusiveyachts.com
Hotels
Al Seef Heritage Hotel
- Nightly rates at Al Seef Heritage Hotel commence from 845 AED (£176) for a King Heritage Room with breakfast www.hilton.com/en/hotels/dxbasqq-al-seef-heritage-hotel-dubai
Anantara The Palm
- Nightly rates at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort begin at 2350 AED (£480) for a Premier Lagoon Access Room with breakfast www.anantara.com/palm-dubai
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